A Tailored Gift

A Tailored Gift

Inspired by the people I met when writing about tailored shirts I thought it time to surprise my husband with a personal gift. I gave him Matt Hübscher`s card and suggested he pop into their showroom- telling him that he could choose whatever he fancied.

I honestly didn`t know what my husband would think of the experience. He returned full of ideas of what he could do in the future. He loved it!

He chose cloth woven in Italy- double twisted super 140 Egyptian cotton, this means that the fabric is robust as well as soft in touch. A cutaway collar. Handmade buttonholes with mother of pearl buttons. The collar, cuffs and arm hole sewn by hand. With his initials embroidered on the cuff.

A few weeks later his shirt arrived in the post. It was slightly too big on the body, but Hübscher had that re- assessed and tailored to perfection in no time.

When considering having your own tailored shirt made here are a few tips:


The correct fit:
Most tailors suggest having a basic shirt made first. By investing time, money and by having a second fitting once produced, your garment will correspond perfectly to your figure, comfort and needs.

Themes to consider

Collar height: The collar should be 1-2cm higher than the lapel of your jacket.

Arm length: The cuff should be at least 1-1.5cm longer than the sleeve of your jacket. The cuff should sit at the root of the thumb, just covering the wrist.

Arm hole: In my opinion alot of tailored shirts have too wider arm hole. Perhaps a traditional touch- however, for me an armhole which allows enough movement at the same time as fitting with the proportions of the individual is much more attractive.

Collar Style: You should be able to slip two fingers inside the collar when closed.
It is important to consider your proportions when choosing a collar style and size. Do you have a long neck? Then you should choose a higher collar. Do you have a small face or neck? Then compliment that with a smaller collar.

Cuff Style: Is a matter of taste. I have clients who love double cuff shirts because it gives them the opportunity to add an accessory. I have other clients who would rather not fuss with cufflinks in the morning and have a monogram (usually their initials embroidered on their cuff) to show a unique statement.

The fabric
Fabric choice is important. Perhaps you need something that is easy to iron, easy to travel in? Maybe you prefer to wear softer, lighter fabrics?

Cotton: Cotton is the main fabric of choice due to its comfort, breathability drape and finish. The quality is calculated by its length, fineness, purity, colour, consistency and origin. Leading cotton threads are Sea Island cotton, Pima cotton and Egyptian cotton.

Blended: Fabric-finishing techniques are continually improving, pure cotton products cannot match blended cottons in terms of easy care. Cotton blended with an elasticated yarn can create a shirt so fitted that it`s simply a second skin. I would be wary of choosing a blend with high artificial fibres due to its finish and breathability.

The weave

Thread count: This is simply the number of threads per square inch. Typically, the higher the thread count, the finer the shirt and the more expensive the fabric. Do not forget that the ply and type of cotton blend will have just as much to do with how luxurious the fabric is!

Ply: This is how many yarns are twisted together to make the thread. Two ply means that during the weaving process two yarns have been woven in with the warp (vertical threads) and the weft (horizontal threads). A two-ply shirt is normally more robust. A thread count of 120 makes a descent two-ply shirt.

Tailor made shirts

Tailor made shirts

Tailor made- shirts part I

I recently met a friend who excitedly told me how he had found a new tailor-made shirt APP. It entailed him recording a film of himself turning around so that the company could take his measurements from the footage and produce a tailored shirt of his choice. I thought – WOW – if this company can produce a reasonably well-made shirt this is certainly a revelation, the future?! I love high- tech but I also love to feel the fabrics, talk about the options and discuss the fit- a more personal approach. I told him to keep me posted.

I was at a tailor this week selecting new fabrics and a new-collar for a client. Once a tailor has the correct measurements it only takes a short time to select a new design. Once you have the right cut, it`s an easy, stress free way to shop!
I decided to contact three Companies offering tailoring in Zürich and asked them three questions.

Hübscher www.huebscherhemden.ch

A family run business since 1949, Hübscher is now run by six brothers and sisters.
Appointments can be made at home, the office or in one of their showrooms. Hübscher produces shirting for retailers all over the world. I met Matthäus Hübscher at his showroom across from Globus, Zürich.

What do you describe as a basic shirt and what is your starting price?
I would suggest a double twisted super 100`S cotton shirt made of Egyptian cotton for a basic shirt. Price CHF 144

How long will it take for the finished shirt to arrive?
It takes three weeks to arrive. It is also possible to arrange an express option, which then only takes two weeks.

Do you offer a second fitting?
Yes, a second fitting is important for new clients in order to add finishing touches to the measurements. For existing clients a second fitting is only required when the body measurements have changed due to weight loss or gain.

Pelikamo www.pelikamo.com

Pelikamo is a Swiss brand that provides business and casual clothing for the male urban professional. Established in 2011, the main boutique is situated across from Kaufleuten on Pelikanstrasse, they recently opened a tailoring atelier on Nüschelerstrasse. Their focus lies on timeless, authentic menswear – no unnecessary frills and no short- term fashion trends. Their signature cut is smart with a slim modern silhouette.

What do you describe as a basic shirt and what is your starting price?
Our classic shirt offers a discreet cutaway collar, a slightly rounded cuff and mother of pearl buttons. Our shirts are made of finest Italian cotton- the result of an extensive quest to create what we believe to be the perfect shirt. Our starting price for a made-to-measure shirt is CHF 149, but the price is dependant on the choice of fabric. The majority of shirts cost CHF 159.

How long will it take for the finished shirt to arrive?
Roughly four weeks

Do you offer a second fitting?
Yes, we do. We want to ensure a perfect fit and if necessary we will do small alterations at a second fitting.

Suitsupply www.suitsupply.com/en/home

There’s something new in town, and it can be found on Nüschelerstrasse, Zürich. Founded in 2000 by then-law student Fokke de Jong, Dutch men’s fashion brand Suitsupply now has stores throughout Western Europe, USA, Canada and China. Realising that many of his peers’ sartorial tastes exceeded their budgets, De Jong set out to offer a personalized, and attainable solution. Sourcing only the finest Italian fabrics, Suitsupply has made a name with its take on modern tailoring and personalized service.

What do you describe as a basic shirt and what is your starting price?
Our Blue Line shirts start at 89 CHF. In terms of a “basic” shirt, there’s really no exact definition. We prefer a slim, well-defined fit around the body, but after that there are a number of collar options that are made to appeal to everyone’s unique style. From there we move up into the Purple and Red Line shirts, which offer even more exclusive fabrics and tailoring details. If you need something very specific, we have custom shirting available which start from CHF 139.

How long will it take for the finished shirt to arrive?
If an off-the-rack shirt needs some altering, that can be done in the store within 30 minutes. For custom shirting it takes about 4 weeks from the time you come in to get fitted to final delivery.

Do you offer a second fitting?
Yes, after an initial fitting you have to return to ensure that everything fits perfectly. If something is not quite right we send it for another round of alterations at no extra cost.

My friend received his shirt a few weeks later by post. The shoulders were slightly tight, the collar too. The company adjusted the cut to my friends wishes and sent him a new shirt free of charge. He said it fitted better but he found the fabric a little rough after a day in the office. Will he be ordering another shirt? Perhaps at one of the tailors above!

Photos Hübscher: Nadine Kägi
Thank you to Pelikamo and Suitsupply for the photographs

Next week: Tailor made Part II- a guide to your first tailored shirt.